Posts Tagged ‘Amsterdam’

Prachtige Grachten van Amsterdam (= Awesome canals of Amsterdam)

Saturday, October 16th, 2010

 

The horse-shoe shaped canals that run through the city have been a source of wonder to me since the day I set foot here. It is astounding to think about how they were built one after another as the inhabitants ran out of space. It is no wonder that the world’s top engineers who deal with water are Dutch, because their ancestors have been commanding it for little less than a thousand years—hanging on to their precious little corner on the planet by keeping the ocean at bay.

I was told during one of the canal cruises that there are more than 1,200 bridges and 165 canals in Amsterdam. Now those may not be huge numbers by themselves, but when you take into consideration the fact that Amsterdam is only 219 km2 including land and water, then that means roughly 5 bridges per square kilometer… Somebody want to tell me this isn’t a city built on water? ;)

Okay, I have to admit I have never been to Venice and I would really love to one day, but until that day Amsterdam will be the top floating city on my list:)

 

Artis

Thursday, October 14th, 2010

When I first came to Amsterdam, there was an occasion when somebody asked me if I would be interested in tickets to Artis, the zoo in town. Having come from Florida, I could not be less interested. I had been to Disney’s Animal Kingdom, the Sea World, the Busch Gardens, and the Butterfly Museum. Heck, I had seen alligators roaming wild and free on the streets. Going to a zoo in Amsterdam? Ha ha ha! They must have been kidding me…! I thought I knew better. Well, I could not have been more off in my thinking :)

Then there is also the fact that I have never liked going to zoos. The locked up animals make me sad. Would I like it if a more intelligent species put me behind bars as a source of entertainment for their kids? No, but then, I could try to look at it from the bright side: I would be so interesting that the members of this more intelligent species would be willing to pay money just to take a look at me.

Thus, I like to think about zoos more like an educational ground for my kids and I suffer along :)

As you can imagine, one day, the inevitable happened. I ran out of options to entertain my then 7-year-old daughter and a friend of mine offered free entrance tickets to Artis. I was sold.

Artis is yet another place where precious space has been ingeniously utilized. The zoo contains an aquarium built in 1881, a butterfly pavilion, a kinderboerderij (= petting zoo), and a movie theater among other things. More than a zoo, it looks like a nicely trimmed, ever-blooming garden. There is hardly any smell despite the fact that it houses more than 900 different species of animals.

They are continuously busy with renovating the zoo, which has opened its doors in 1838. Even though there are some animals still behind old-fashioned cages, most others have been enclosed in a more friendly way and some even left to roam for free—like the peacocks.

For children, it’s a paradise with countless animals and several different playgrounds. It’s also an interesting place for artists and photographers.  The annual membership has proven invaluable. Being situated right in the center of the city with easy access, it has become our top destination for daily leisure. Some of our favorites are: the sea lion feedings at 11:45, the tiny mammals section, the butterflies, the penguins, the giant tortoises, and the anteaters :)

And Artis has the best free toilets in Amsterdam!

Are you sold? ;)

Speeltuin UJ Klaren (= UJ Klaren Playground)

Tuesday, October 12th, 2010

Amsterdam Heineken Experience (a.k.a. the Heineken Museum) is a well-known tourist attraction. I have heard only good stories from people who have visited it since its recent renovation—although I have yet to see it.

However, this post is not about the beer museum, but the hidden gem that lies across from it. (Of course, the definition of ‘gem’ is highly subjective here and I admit that I am exaggerating a bit :) )

Speeltuin UJ Klaren is one of those ingenious ways that space is utilized in Amsterdam: in this case it is a playground being used both by a preschool and the public.

Unlike most other playgrounds in Amsterdam, this one is surrounded by a tall fence and there is no escape for the children—except the entrance door, which is kept closed with an iron bolt at all times. The lock that hangs under the bolt and the semi-official gate bearing the name of the playground give the impression that it cannot be entered freely.

I first heard about its existence from another parent I met at our Monday playgroup. Nice playgrounds are blessings in disguise for parents with young children: the more the better. So I grabbed my opportunity to check it out the following day. Even though I went there knowing it was a playground open to public, I was intimidated by the tall iron fence surrounding the playground and I had difficulty locating the entrance. I circled all the way around and ended up trying to open a locked door on the other side and almost gave up on my attempt to enter because I caught the eyes of some parents inside giving me the ‘what-the-heck-are-you-trying-to-do’ look. I was embarrassed, of course. Was this not a public playground after all? Maybe I had misunderstood what I had been told… How had the other parents gotten in?

Disappointed, I slowly started to walk back home still scanning the playground. Before it disappeared out of my sight, I saw somebody else heading towards it. She went for the gate right next to the canal, across from the Heineken Experience. I quickly steered the stroller and followed the lady’s footsteps. I was too late to catch up with her. There I stood one more time in front of the closed door, puzzled because of the lock hanging on the door. How had she entered? I looked more closely and finally noticed the iron bolt on the other side, reached for it and lifted it. Ta daaa! We were inside.

It has been a great place to go to when the weather is nice. I can just sit down and relax without having to worry where my daughter has run off to. She can go wherever she wants. The sand toys and the tricycles that the preschool shares with the public during its school hours are an added bonus. How many public playgrounds are there that provide toys for public use? And the nice thing is, nobody takes them away. The kids play with them and leave them there. That is that.

When I was there taking pictures today, a grandma came along with her grandchild and stood in front of the door just like I had done more than a year ago. She fumbled with the lock and then turned her stroller around to leave. I took a few steps towards her and said, “It’s open.” “Is it open?” she asked. She was a foreigner, sounded like an American. “You just need to lift the bolt,” I replied in English. She thanked me and went inside. I could have done what the others had done to me: given her the ‘what-the-heck-are-you-trying-to-do’ look, but I didn’t. I was a foreigner, too.

Parent-child playgroup Quellijnstraat 62-66

Monday, October 11th, 2010

I saw the dull, orange information leaflet for the Monday parent/child playgroup at the consultatiebureau (= consultation office) shortly after my younger daughter’s birth. (In the Netherlands, instead of pediatricians, this office is responsible for following the growth and development of healthy children along with the administration of vaccinations.) That brochure has been the key to a series of memorable Monday afternoons with my daughter.

When we first moved here, being a foreign mom in a strange land, I found myself faced with a number of interesting challenges, one of which was finding a social network that would be supportive of my motherhood and my foreignness.

Even though I am against generalizing and stereotyping people, after four years, I feel compelled to say something about the inhabitants of my strange new land. The Dutch are a curious breed. When we first moved here, every Dutch person I met made me feel welcome and at home. I felt that I was among close friends, but it did not take long before the warm and fuzzy feeling began to wear off. After all was said and done, everybody went back to living their lives. Nobody bothered to give me a call back to ask how I was doing. Everybody had their own inner circle of friends and nobody was interested to make an effort to include an outsider. So where did that leave me? Out in limbo…

Hence, the Monday playgroup was a God-sent gift to me. The playgroup was for parents and their 0 – 4 years old children. One day, I gathered my courage, picked up my six-month old baby and went to the playgroup. I knew nobody then, but after more than two-years, things are much different now. I have gotten to know really nice people. I have made friends with people who live in the same neighborhood. It is relaxing to sit around and have a cup of tea and chat with other parents while my daughter gets to play around with their kids. Every now and then, the children sit around the table and do some activities. Sometimes, there is a musician, who comes in to introduce a music instrument to the children. There never is a dull moment.

Interestingly, most parents are foreigners… The few Dutch parents, who attend the group, are those with foreign partners! I have yet to see a child whose parents are both Dutch. Where are the Dutch people? Do they not exist or do they prefer to stick to their own inner-circle of friends?

Today I found out that a Tuesday playgroup has started in another location, but sadly there is no one attending so far. I am planning to go. Maybe I shall meet another kindred spirit there, who knows? Here is the address and the timetable for the playgroups—just in case you would like to come meet me there :)

Monday playgroups meet between 14:30 – 16:30
@ Peuterspeelzaal Waldemar
Quellijnstraat 62-66, 1072 XV Amterdam.
-
Tuesday playgroups meet between 14:30 – 16:30
@ Peuterspeelzaal Dribbel
Smaragdplein 3, 1074 HA Amsterdam. 

There is also a housewarming party for the Tuesday playgroup at Peuterspeelzaal Dribbel on Thursday, October 14, 2010 from 9:30 until 11:00. There will be activities for children 0 – 4 years of age such as dancing, music, face painting, and prizes.

In de Waag

Saturday, October 9th, 2010

I have created quite a challenge for myself: making a tribute to Amsterdam by writing a post every single day. I have 37 days left. Every day for the last couple of days now, I am expecting myself to fail.

Shortly before 9 pm, we got off the train returning from our day trip to Zwaagdijk. I trudged towards my bike wondering how in the world I would write my daily post when I did not feel like I had enough energy even to cycle the 20 minutes ride back home. I beat myself up mentally for the ambitious promise I made to my silent readers. Why had I made such a promise?

After putting my weary husband and daughter to bed, here I am, typing away. One more day is saved, but I have an immediate problem. What am I to write about today? I don’t live the life of a tourist guide, so coming up with a new place in Amsterdam every day is not an easy task…

We were in Zwaagdijk today and my in-laws took me to visit their neighbor, who had built a Boerderij Museum (= farm museum) in the back of his house. The guy had literally set up a small museum in his spare time. Incredible… If I wrote a post about this private museum, would it count as part of my tribute to Amsterdam? I mulled over it somewhat and then I thought, ‘Naaahh… This place is not in Amsterdam. Write about something else, woman!’

So at the expense of sounding trivial and lackluster, I shall only say a few words and share a picture of a place that I passed by yesterday and call it a day: Restaurant – Café In de Waag. It is one of those rare 500-year-old buildings that is still standing tall and is not turned into a museum. As I approached it on my bike, I could not help but stop and admire it for a few minutes. I did not know then that the picture I took would save today :)  I have made a mental note to go and have a bite there before my time in Amsterdam is up. I promise to give you the inside scoop later on. In the meantime, here is how it looks from the outside…

 

By the way, I am in no way writing this stuff in exchange for any sort of compensation from anybody or any institution/company. Just in case you were thinking that it’s just another marketing scheme, I assure you, for now it isn’t :)

Bird’s eye view from the public library

Friday, October 8th, 2010

Why would you want to go to a public library when you’re on vacation—even if you are not crazy about books? You do it in Amsterdam in order to get the best bird’s eye view possible without flying over the city.

Openbare bibliotheek Amsterdam (= Amsterdam public library) next to the Central Train Station is one of the recently built brand new buildings that overlooks the city from ‘Het Ij’.

It shatters the negative connotations of a library packed with books where only bookworms crawl. This library is brightly lit with a modern interior design. It is spacious in a city where space is difficult to come by.

Since the first day I set foot in this city, the lack of space has been a constant bother: the narrow streets, small houses, tiny balconies, and all that stuffed with people, people, people and their dogs… Being somewhat claustrophobic does not help, of course. So, the relief I get just by walking into a building that is wide and grand inside is priceless.

It is possible to cruise all the way up to the 6th floor with escalators, but I head for the elevator and push 7, which takes me all the way up to La Place. The ceiling is lit up with lamps that read, “bibliotheek, voedsel voor de geest” (= library, food for the soul). I stroll through colorful food options and set my eyes on a large piece of warm appelkruimeltaart (= apple crumble cake) and order a small cup of cappuccino. A few people are sitting outside on the balcony, but it is somewhat chilly today, so I settle for the best bird’s eye view available from inside.

The mist gently wraps up the whole city in its arms with all the towers, buildings, cranes disappearing in acquiescence. White swans idly glide across the water. The hustle and bustle of the cramped city is not to be seen, heard, or felt from so far above. There is a feeling of immense space up here and I can breathe freely…

Now take that for a public library ;)

Amsterdam Centraal Station

Thursday, October 7th, 2010

 

Amsterdam Central StationMy time is running out. I promised a post a day and I am about to fail on the third day.

But I won’t. It will be short, but I will deliver.

39 more days left in Amsterdam.

When I first arrived at this city, I was baffled by its size. How could Amsterdam be so small with only 750,000 inhabitants? I could go from one end of the city to the other end on a bike in less than half an hour? How was that possible in this century of big buildings, big cars, big everything?

Amsterdam is one of the best preserved old cities that still boasts being a home to a handful of ‘Amsterdammers’. Even though the city center swarms with tourists, tourism is not the dominant industry and there are a lot of ‘normal’ people going about their own business.

People continue to live and work in buildings that are hundreds of years old. The tram rails that lace the city have been around for at least 100 years. Living here is like jumping into a medieval story book. I don’t have to pay to go to a museum: I live inside one.

One building that continues to fascinate me is the Amsterdam Central Train Station. It is spectacular: the odd mix of the old and the new. If you ever have the opportunity to pass through it, make sure you take the time to stop at the 100 year old café inside. As I sat there sipping my cup of coffee, I wondered why there was not a tourist guide that listed all the free sightseeing that is possible in this city…

Het Concertgebouw (= the concert building)

Wednesday, October 6th, 2010

I have got (n-1) days left to live on this planet. My life’s mission/passion is to write and I promised my noble readers yesterday that not another day shall go by without a post!

Now, that is easy to say, but you already know that I am afflicted with indecisiveness and perfection. So this blog is where I fight the battle with me-little-miss-perfect-who-can’t-decide. No, not a battle, because then that means somebody has to lose. This will be my dance. That sounds, oh, so much better!

I had several ideas to write about today:

1. Separation anxiety in toddlers

2. The flu shot

3. Het Concertgebouw.

What was I to do? My time is limited to those few precious hours when my daughter sleeps, so it had to be quick with little or no research. I had (n-1) days left to live of which the next 40 days would be in Amsterdam. A series of Amsterdam posts would be a nice challenge, so today’s winner was: Het Concertgebouw in Amsterdam.

I took my almost 3 year old daughter to a performance by the students of the Dutch National Opera Academy. It was her first time to a classical concert and I trusted her to keep her quiet as she listened. She did not prove me wrong: she listened quietly throughout the 30 minute performance. It was beautiful. Even though she told me she did not like it, I think otherwise :) How else could she have sat still the whole time?

Standing for more than 100 years, the building itself is exquisite with its neoclassical architecture. As we walked through corridors streamed with deep red carpets, I felt like we were being drawn into a different era. The high ceilings lit with chandeliers and the walls embroidered with famous composer names: we were inside a living museum.

And all this was for free. Yes, the 30 minute wednesday noon concerts are free for the public to enjoy.

And the acoustics… Fantastic. The singers had no microphones, yet the music was crisp and clear.

It was a feast for my eyes, my ears, and my soul…

 

Dossier Van Gogh: gek of geniaal? (mad or genius)

Sunday, August 29th, 2010

I am no art fan, but I had heard of Vincent van Gogh (1853 – 1890). Shortly after moving to Amsterdam, I found out that Van Gogh was in fact Dutch and that the Van Gogh museum was only 5 minutes cycling distance from where we lived. Naturally, I was excited with the prospect of becoming more knowledgeable about the fellow and his artwork. However, my expectations must have been set a bit too high… As I was leaving the museum, I could not help but think that I had paid too much entrance fee (€14) for a guy who was overrated because of a bunch of farm pictures he had painted. He was little known and little appreciated for his art during his short life span of 37 years. It was after his death that he became famous largely due to his sister-in-law’s continuous efforts to promote his work. At that time, I thought she had done an outstanding marketing job and made a nice living out of it…

When I saw the ad for ‘Dossier Van Gogh: gek of geniaal (=mad or genius)?’ exhibition at Dolhuys museum, I could not help but feel a pang of sympathy for Van Gogh… Even long after his death, people are still debating whether his paintings were the fruits of a sick mind or a genius. More than 150 psychiatrists have tried to pinpoint the cause of his mental ailments and have come up with some 30 different diagnoses… What difference does it make? Who cares?

Creativity requires some ‘craziness’.

Most of us live by gender norms, cultural norms, social norms, family norms, and other you-name-it norms. Most of the time we adopt these norms automatically—without even giving them a second thought, because they help us function smoothly in dealing with others. We all have this urge to want to ‘fit in’ and the norms we live by define what is ‘normal’. What is our first reaction when we meet someone who is not ‘normal’? We label them as crazy or ingenius or we simply can’t believe our eyes…

  • “Wow! That’s totally crazy!”
  • “That’s awesome! She must be a real genius!”
  • “That’s insane! Why would anyone do that sort of thing?”
  • “I can’t believe it!”

Isn’t it then ‘normal’ that we develop a tendency to label those who live outside the norms as ‘insane’?

(Here is some crazy behavior: In Turkey, it is customary for men to kiss each other on the cheek upon seeing each other—twice!—and sometimes with an accompanying hearty hug. I still get amused by the disbelieving look on the face of a ‘civilized’ western guy when caught off guard with this custom—which is totally ‘normal’ given Turkish cultural norms of course…)

“There is a fine line between genius and insanity. I have erased this line,” says Oscar Levant (1906 – 1972). Is there really a fine line between genius and insanity? Or are genius and insanity the two ends of a spectrum? What does the spectrum look like? A line with two opposite ends or a circle with no end?

Artists are creative folks. Their courage to live outside the norms enables them to create some awesome stuff. They keep at it in the face of financial difficulty, disapproval from others, living as an outcast. I find it remarkable and praiseworthy. If anything, we all need to be a bit crazier in order to turn on the light of creativity in our lives…

Creativity has no place to blossom in a norm-defined life.


~~~


Johanna Gesina van Gogh – Bonger (1862 – 1925)

I owe an apology to this lady, who was Van Gogh’s sister-in-law. I was too quick to label her as just-a-smart-marketer of Van Gogh’s work after his death. My perception of her at the museum does great injustice to her life and personality. She had been married to Van Gogh’s brother Theo for only 1.5 years before Theo died. I read the memoir that her son (Van Gogh’s nephew) wrote for her and I was quite touched by her story.

Here is an excerpt from a letter she wrote to a friend taken from the memoir:

“The letters have taken a large place in my life already, since the beginning of Theo’s illness. The first lonely evening which I spent in our home after my return I took the package of letters. I knew that in them I should find him again. Evening after evening that was my consolation after the miserable days. It was not Vincent whom I was seeking but Theo. I drank in every word, I absorbed every detail. I not only read the letters with my heart, but with my whole soul. And so it has remained all the time. I have read them, and reread them, until I saw the figure of Vincent clearly before me. Imagine for one moment my ex-perience, when I came back to Holland – realizing the greatness and the nobility of that lonely artist’s life. Imagine my disappointment at the indifference which people showed, when it concerned Vincent and his work…. Sometimes it made me very sad. I remember how last year, on the day of Vincent’s death, I went out late in the evening. The wind blew, it rained, and it was pitch-dark. Everywhere in the houses I saw light and people gathered around the table. And I felt so forlorn that for the first time I understood what Vincent must have felt in those times, when every body turned away from him, when he felt “as if there were no place for him on earth…” I wished that I could make you feel the influence Vincent had on my life. It was he who helped me to accommodate my life in such a way that I can be at peace with myself. Serenity – this was the favorite word of both of them, the something they considered the highest. Serenity – I have found it. Since that winter, when I was alone, I have not been unhappy – “sorrowful yet always rejoicing,” that was one of his expressions, which I have come to understand now.”

Johanna made a great contribution to history by relentlessly promoting Van Gogh’s work. She was anything but ‘just-a-smart-marketer’.

More than that, she was an admirable mother.

~~~

The Illusion of Civilization

Tuesday, July 6th, 2010

[June 24, 2010, Adana, Turkey]

I wake up to the sound of the howling wind, the lightning flashes in the far distance, and a slamming door. I sit up in bed, my heart racing.

What is this?

Unexpected weather. That’s all it is. Had it been in a northern country in the middle of the winter, it would have been totally normal. I would be nicely cuddled under the covers, with the heater on, with tightly insulated doors and windows… A storm brewing outside? Not a care in the world… It is expected.

But here? In Adana, Turkey, at the end of June? Totally unexpected. And it makes me worry. Global cooling?  (Hey, ‘global-warming-worry’ is now getting old. I need a new worry :-) )

We have been here for only two weeks and I have been annoyed with the warm weather, the cold weather, the power cuts, the leaking water tank, the hot water, the cold water, the slow internet, the road rage. Where is the western civilization? I don’t want to feel any fluctuation in weather temperature. I don’t want to have to deal with the water temperature or the water pressure of my shower. I don’t want power cuts. Lights go out when I flip the switch—not randomly! And internet: the slow speed is killing me—okay, I can handle that, but then how do I handle the fact that I can’t access youtube?

WESTERN CIVILIZATION! Where the heck are you?

I look outside the window. The crazy wind has gone; it is eerily quiet. Lovely view outside: the lake shimmering with twinkling city lights in the distance; the moon looking old like a shriveled potato near the horizon. The usual frog chatter is missing and there is utter tranquility on our side of the lake— but now I hear drums in the distance… If I were on a safari in Africa, the sound would be expected, but here? It sounds creepy and annoying. (See? I have found something else to be annoyed with.) Are we in a tribal country? No. So what are these drum sounds? Can somebody please make them stop? It’s getting on my nerves! WESTERN CIVILIZATION! Where the heck are you???

[July 6, 2010, Amsterdam, Netherlands]

The Netherlands has beaten Uruguay 3-2 and now is in the World Cup final.

Sitting at home in the heart of Amsterdam, I hear the ‘western civilization’ go utterly wild outside.

I was out earlier today with my children and made every effort to get myself back home before 7 pm, because I wanted to avoid that overly enthusiastic crowd eagerly waiting to fill in various pubs and cafes to watch the match beginning at 8:30 pm. Cycling towards home before 7 pm, the streets were already busy with people clad in all sorts of orange gear—hats, wigs, glasses, stockings, etc. (you-name-it-they’ve-got-it!). The police was slowly taking their positions in strategic spots to prevent any enthusiast turning into an aggressor/aggrevator. Traffic was already turning into a mess with reckless cyclists and pedestrians… I had to keep an extra close watch on my 10 year old kid. Uhm, western civilization, where the heck are you???

And now the noise emanating from the whole city sounds like a torrential rain mixed with saxophones, drum beats, disco beat, honking cars, police sirens, car alarms going off… It is to be expected, though, right? We are in the World Cup final!!! Party, party, party, western civilization!

May I be annoyed? It is 11:15 pm and I would like to go to bed and sleep. Can somebody please stop the madness outside?

HEY, BUT THIS IS EXPECTED!!!

I guess this is the secret of western civilization. Even the madness and the craziness are planned in such a way that they are EXPECTED. Most about everything is EXPECTED. Nothing unexpected happens. (We had a water outage for one hour yesterday – the first that I have encountered in the last two years and even THAT was planned. Oh, the beauty and the predictability of western civilization…) And when something unexpected happens, it is because of dear Mother Nature. She strikes down with a hurricane or an earthquake or a volcano… How unpredictable and inconvenient… Shame on you Mother Nature, for bringing uncertainty into our lives!

While we were in Turkey, we spent time in a village up in the mountains. My dear hubby pointed out to me that the people were really poor. I had to agree and disagree with him. Yes, they LOOKED poor given the western civilization standards: shabby clothes, old shoes, no iphones, no fancy cars, old motorcycles, bad roads, no banks :-) —not much of a cash flow anywhere… But then, I thought they were rich in a way we would never be. They ate off of their land fruits and vegetables that tasted nothing like the stuff we get here – nothing sprayed with chemicals or pesticides… They cut and ate their own sheep and chicken, who roam free–because there is no money to fence them in… They bake their own bread in old fashined stone ovens with wood from the forest—no money to buy any fancy fuel or fancy ovens… They make their own clothes… These people were self-sufficient and were able to live without the luxuries that I have become addicted to in western civilization.

Western civilization, what have you done to me? Given me the magical paper money (and lots and lots of it), so that I can spend it on stuff that will make me happy (what would I do without my laptop?), so that I can buy any and every kind of insurance to reduce the evil uncertainties that may sneek up on me…

Western civilization has given me the illusion that I have control over my life and things that happen in my life. Nothing unexpected happens anymore. I live in my fish bowl.

I go to Turkey—an aquarium :-) —and immediately I start missing my little fish bowl. Oh, the sweet illusion…